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The photographic news
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- 35.1891
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- 1891
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- Bandzählung
- No. 1695, February 27, 1891
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The photographic news
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168 THE PHOTOGRAPHIC NEWS. [February 27, 1891. PHOTOGRAPHIC TOURISTS IN ICELAND* BY J. REYNOLDS, M.D., F.B.G.S. Slide 17.—We were now to have our first experience of lava fields and earthquake cracks ; for a little while the road was very fair, but about four or five miles from the capital the real road or track began, and such a road ! Imagine, if you can, a ploughed field strewn with huge masses of clinkers, each piece varying from the size of one’s head to the size of a house, only a few feet apart, and you have a faint idea of the plains north of Krisuvick. As you approach the volcanic chains near the south coast, words utterly fail to convey an idea of the scene of gloom and wild desolation that presents itself far and wide as far as the eye can reach ; nothing but calcined rocks, huge lava boulders, charred branches of shrubs, and disintegrated lava, not a blade of grass nor living thing to be seen. The dead silence, the fire-blasted appearance of the calcined rocks, is appalling ; here and there on the edge of the volcanic chain puffs of smoke can be seen curling up from fissures in the ground, showing that the fires are close beneath our feet—in fact, in some places the earth is so hot as to burn our boots—but we go on until we begin to ascend the actual mountains, and now in crossing the chain we pass through and around crater after crater of slumbering, bat not extinct volcanoes. We pass along a path fifteen inches wide, on horseback it must be remembered, having on our right steep precipices into the various craters, and on our left perpendicular lava walls, and in some places there is actually a gap of a foot or two in this narrow path, over which our careful little ponies carry us safely—we dare not cross it on foot. We reach the other side, and on descending into the plain below, a sight presents itself which is not easily forgotten. The slide gives a general view. Our guide tells us we had better pitch the tents on the grass, the blades of which are at least six inches apart, and so rank that the ponies will not touch it ; and now what a view one beholds I On the sides and in the recesses of the hills are vast pits, or cauldrons, of shallow lakes, all in a state of violent ebullition, so violent as to make the earth around tremble. Jets of steam at very high pressure are escaping with a deafening roar, clouding everything, and smelling horribly of rotten eggs. Every little hole that one makes in the ground with a stick sends up a curling column of smoke. One feels that one is merely standing on a thin crust over a fiery furnace miles and miles in diameter, and such is really most probably the case. I must not omit to add that the ground in places is most brilliantly covered with a deep cardinal red, and in others with rich sulphur yellow powder, whilst the milk white edges of the lakes are tinted in alternate bands of every imaginable variety of colour, and when the sun fairly lights up this region, the total effect is a hazy purple, like the bloom on a hot-house grape. Slide 18 gives a nearer view of one or two of these pits. Slide 19 shows five of these pits, including the famous blue mud cauldron, where there is thin mud of a magnificent tur quoise blue colour boiling with such violence that the bubbles are thrown up seven or eight feet high. We none of us ven tured too near this terrible pit, tor it made the firmest of us feel shaky. Slide 20.—One of our party is here shown heating a kettle in one of the boiling lakes. Having photographed everything of interest in this region of calcined rocks, we started at twelve o’clock next day, Monday, for Vogsasar, a distance of only sixteen miles, but such was the nature of the region we had to pass over that we were nearly eleven hours on the journey ; this is said by competent guides, who know all about the Icelandic passes, to be the roughest road in the country. It appears that, at some period, a tremendous eruption of liquid lava from some dozens of craters, which can still be seen, occurred, which liquid flow, in solidifying, cemented together the huge blocks with which this place is literally covered, and that a subsequent earthquake rent this immense coating of cement, and heaped slabs of it, boulders and all, one on top of the other. The lava rocks also here show unmistakable signs of being torn asunder while in a * Continued from page 82. semi-plastic state, and stand out like the fingers of an out stretched hand in their weirdness, awful to look at. We arrived at last at Vogsasar. Slide 21 shows the appearance of the farm, and the beau tiful lake Hlivarvatn. Slide 22 shows the farm on a nearer view. Slide 23 shows the sheep-house, with walls four feet thick, to protect from the intense cold of the Icelandic winter. Slide 24 shows our camp beside the lake Hlivarvatn. The next day (Tuesday) we started at 11'30 a.m. for Eyrarbakki, and arrived there at 7 p.m., crossing on our way the Olfusa river in a ferry boat, after which we walked three miles knee deep in loose volcanic sand, along the banks of the river to the house of Mr. Le Folli, in whose back garden we had obtained leave to pitch our tents. Slide 25 shows our tent in Mr. Le Folli's garden. This slide was given me by R. Marsden, Esq., of Denbigh Castle, one of our party. Slide 26 shows the main street in Eyrarbakki as seen from the sea shore. Slide 27 shows side street in the town. Slide 28 shows an Icelandic fisherman and family group in front of a house on the sea shore. The next day, at 3.50 p.m., we started for Sandholaferja, where we arrived at 9.45 p.m., crossing the Thjorsa river on our way, and, passing the village farm Lopstadr, we stopped and had some skyr. We also passed and stopped at a farm called Sraun. Slide 29 shows this farm. Slide 30 shows us having lunch on the road to Heckla. From this place we had a splendid view of the mountain, being not more than twenty-three miles distant. At 11.35 the next morning we started for Heckla, and, after a nine hours’ ride over a fair road and horrible bog, into which one of our party got thrown, we arrived at Daltarlakr farm, about five miles from the mountain, having crossed the Rau- villokn river about twenty times. The next slides (31 and 32) were given me by Mr. Lange. Slide 31 gives an idea how the cavalcade looked when crossing this river, which winds like a snake. Slide 32 shows the peculiar' lumpy state of the fields about six miles from Heckla, with the guide in the foreground pointing to the mountain in the distance. Slide 38 shows the actual mountain as seen from our camp at Daltarlakr Farm. The next morning, July 11th, three of our party—viz., Mr. Paul Lange, Dr. Irwin, and I—started to ascend Heckla, and, after seven hours’ hard climbing, we entered the crater. Mr. Lange, having a hand-camera in his possession, photographed the said crater, with Dr. Irwin, myself, and the guide standing in the same. Slide 34 shows us as having arrived at the first patch of snow during our ascent, about 1,500 feet up the mountain. Slide 35 shows Dr. Irwin and myself picking up fragments of lava from the wall of the crater, specimens of which I can show you after the lecture. Slide 36 shows chief guide, Dr. Irwin, and myself in crater. I must mention here that Mr. Paul Lange took these two photographs, and kindly furnished me with the slide from the same. He is the first tnan who has photographed Heckla’s Crater. We only took four hours in descending, so much easier is it to go down hill than up. The tracks to and from the summit lead through mountain torrents and lava flows of the wildest description, and one can see from the summit over a radius of at least seventy miles ; in every direction the view is magnificent. Before leaving the farm, the friendly people came to the camp to bid us good-bye. Slide 37 shows one of our party taking an affectionate fare well of the Icelandic ladies. Slide 38.—The next morning, at 10'30, we started for Hruni en route for Gullfoss ; soon after leaving Heckla, we crossed the Thjorsa a second time, and I took a view of ponies crossing. (To be continued.)
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