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The photographic news
- Bandzählung
- 7.1863
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- 1863
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- Hochschule für Grafik und Buchkunst Leipzig
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- Hochschule für Grafik und Buchkunst Leipzig
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- Bandzählung
- No. 247, May 29, 1863
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Zeitschrift
The photographic news
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Band 7.1863
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- Titelblatt Titelblatt -
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- Register Index 619
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Band
Band 7.1863
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[May 29, 1863. Uo Corxespondents. Positive.—The formula to which you refer was, as we stated, given at a photographic meeting. We have not tried it ourselves. The strength of the developer, need not, however, in any degree affect the strength of the silver bath used. A bath for positives may contain from 35 grains to 40 grains of nitrate of silver, with from 1 to 2 drops of nitric acid to an ounce of water. Alabama.—The recent decision of the judges regarding photographic piracies of engravings simply determines that when a copyright exists a photographic copy is an infringement of it. Where, from non-compliance with the pro visions of the Copyright Act, or other causes, no copyright exists, photo graphic or other copies are not piracies, P. T.—It is better to buy marine glue than to make it. It consists of 4 drachms of india-rubber cut into small pieces and dissolved in 4 ounces of benzole, to which 8 ounces of powdered shellac are added, the mixture being melted together by heat. It is then poured out into cakes to solidify. It may be bought at many tool-shops. 2. Glue would be dissolved by steam. " 3. It is not injurious to prints to dry them upon blotting-paper. 4. They will not injure by being kept a few hours damp without spreading out to dry; but the sooner they are dried the better. 5. Solutions of carbonate or phosphate of soda do not injure by keeping. 6. The yellow brown precipitate in your developing solution is peroxide of iron. Filter it from the solution. That which forms a hard coating on the bottle may be easily removed by sulphuric acid. 7. The black powder thrown down by sulphate of iron from old toning solutions is metallic gold. The yellow or brown powder may be a little oxide of iron. 8. Your prints must be washed each time with fresh water. The silver in the washing water may be thrown down as a chloride. 9. Your last question, « May I register' the colour of prints ?” we do not quite understand. Geo. Atkins.—We do not quite understand what kind of stains you refer to as occurring always with a new bath. Stains should not so occur. They may sometimes occur from the bath not being saturated with iodide, or from the bath not being sufficiently acid; or possibly from using a deve loper with alcohol in it, which is unnecessary with a new bath. 2. Old silver baths should not be used for intensifying, but a fresh, pure solution. 3. The print enclosed is very good in some respects, but the lens is of too short a focus for a standing card figure. You may help it a little by using a camera with swing-back which will assist you in getting the feet in focus, as will also a small stop. The No. 1B of the maker you name may, we believe, be used for card portraits with a distance of 12 feet between the camera and sitter; but the maker can doubtless tell you accurately. If you could in any way contrive to get a foot or two more it would enable you to work with more comfort. No. 290.—It is evident that you do not tone to nearly a sufficient depth. Let the prints attain a black tone before leaving the toning bath. Bead the chapter on toning in our Almanac. See also an article on toning which will appear in our next. Avoid the carbonate of soda as a rule. B. IV. S.—The negatives of your card portraits are pretty good, especially the two male figures. Your prints are, however, a little meally. We shall have something more to say on the subject of toning and mealiness in our next. Where you use a pictorial background, involving distinct perspec tive lines, such as an interior with receding wall, avoid using a carpet with a marked pattern, or anything else which will at once show that the point of sight in the actual photograph and that in the painted accessories are not the same. II. Cresson.—The chief cause of your printing difficulties is in your nega tives: they are much too weak to yield brilliant prints. You must print very much deeper than you have done in the examples forwarded, and then tone to a deeper colour. It is generally desirable to have some bronzing in the deepest shadows in order to obtain vigorous and rich coloured prints. The behaviour of your hypo solution suggests the pro bability of some cracks in the glaze of the vessel in which it is kept. It will quickly attack and destroy the glaze of some inferior samples of earthenware. It should not have behaved as you describe otherwise. We do not think it will pay you to recrystallize your hypo simply for the pur pose of fixing negatives. Emily.—We do not quite understand your difficulty in making chloride of gold. Is it that decomposition occurs whilst evaporating it, causing a precipitate ? If that is the case you have probably used too much heat, or possibly added too much carbonate of soda in attempting to neutralize the acid. 2. Much depends upon the tone desired, as to which will be consi dered the best toning formula. Many persons prefer that with acetate of soda and gold, it generally gives various tints of purple. The solutions containing lime generally give black tones. You will find Ommeganck’s, Maxwell Lyte’s, and many others in our Almanac for this year, where also you will find excellent collodion formula). 3. The subscription to the Photographic Society is a guinea a year, and a guinea entrance. Dr. Diamond, the Secretary, will supply you with information as to the rules. A. A.—In speaking of “a lens from a common stereoscope " you are much too indefinite, as many forms of lenses are used in that instrument. In some cases half a double-convex lens is used, in some simply a prism ; in some a whole double-convex; in some a meniscus. In almost all cases the lens is non-achromatic, and the visual and actinic foci not coincident. It is most probable that to this cause your failure to use it satisfactorily as a landscape lens is due. Epsilon.—We cannot give you the slightest idea as to the trustworthiness of the various descriptions of second-hand apparatus in advertisements. The best plan, for certainty, is to see the articles before you buy them. We cannot tell you the commercial value of the lens to which you refer. Your best plan, if .you wish to make an exchange, will be to apply to some dealer of second-hand apparatus, such as Mr. Morley, who will, doubtless, deal fairly with you. A single lens is better for general landscape pur poses than a portrait lens. The especial advantage of the triple over the single lens is that it includes a wider angle of subject, and is free from dis tortion, giving rigidly straight lines in architecture, &c., which no form of single lens ever does. A Lunatic.—In what condition your negatives originally were, or what causes have been in operation to produce their present deplorable state, we cannot conceive. Moistening a film varnished with spirit varnish with spirit ought to have no more power upon it to produce cracks than the original varnishing had. Possibly your film, consisting of a piece in the middle of the plate, allowed the spirit to get under by running all round the edges. Possibly it had not been varnished with a spirit varnish before. Apart, however, from the cracks, you have obtained very bad results. Either you must have continued the application of the iodine too long, or the plate had been treated with bichloride of mercury. Instead of obtaining a dense olive-coloured image, you have an image of pale yellow. Your original negative must have been sadly wanting in sharpness and vigour. We have had communications from several readers, amongst whom are very able professional photographers, who have succeeded in making worthless var nished negatives give very fine prints by applying the iodine solution as directed. A Constant Subscriber.—Your only cause of failure is under-exposure, with, possibly, little under-development. So far as we can judge by the results, your bath is in right condition for positives. It is possible that your collodion may be old and insensitive, but as you do not state the length of exposure, we cannot form an opinion on that subject. In any case, with the same materials, a considerably increased exposure, and a little longer development, will give you good results. John Clusky.—See answer to P. M., in our last. 2. We believe that the argentometers are generally sufficiently accurate for testing the printing bath. P. T.—The fee for registering a photograph is one shilling; the blank form costs a penny; and attendance in person or by an agent at the Register Office is necessary. If you fill up a form properly and send it with 15 penny stamps to our publisher he will register the picture for you. See form in our Almanac. The same fee is charged whether the picture be large or small. P. G.—The reticulation of the collodion film on drying arises from the presence of too much water. The alcohol is not sufficiently highly rectified. When the tendency exists, you may, to some extent, ameliorate it by letting the film set well before immersion in the nitrate bath, and by giving plenty of exposure, so as not to need over-pushing in development. J. R.—The question " whether photographic chemicals spoil by keeping” is rather a wide one. Some chemicals do spoil, and some do not. As a gene ral principle, they do keep when unmixed. Some samples of collodion‘do not keep when iodized, or even when plain for very long. Ether is also apt to deteriorate by contact with light and air. T. B.—The splitting and curling up of the collodion film on drying may generally be traced to one of two or three causes, or all combined. Im perfectly cleaned plates are the most common cause. Some samples of collo dion have a predisposition to this defect. Pushing the development or intensifying will sometimes produce it. Besides avoiding these causes, you may prevent it, when the tendency exists, by pouring over the plate, whilst wet, a weak solution of gum arabic or albumen. M. Wynter.—On adding carbonate of soda to a silver bath containing acetic acid, acetate of silver is formed. A portion of this remains in solution, but if the acetic acid and soda arc present in excess, a precipitate of acetate of silver is thrown down, which is the salt you enclose. It is a difficult thing to eliminate acetic acid from a bath. The only plan we can recom mend is to add carbonate of soda until it is neutralized ; then let the solu tion stand in a very cold place for a while, and filter out the precipitate. A portion of acetate of silver will still remain in solution. This may to some extent be got rid of by exposing the bath to sunlight for a few days, by which the acetate of silver will be blackened and thrown down. Again filter, acidify again, if necessary, with dilute nitric acid, and avoid the addition of acetic acid to the silver bath in future. B. B.—We do not know the specific tone to which you refer, without seeing it. But it is most probably obtained by the acetate bath. Good negatives are essential to good tones, with these, good paper, strong silver solution, and deep printing, you may obtain almost any tone you desire. The tone of your print is not bad, but the negative is hard and not well defined. II. Higgins.—We forwarded the stamps to Dr. Diamond. Photo.—Pinholes arise from many causes, excess of acetate of silver, or of iodide of silver in the bath ; dust, turbid collodion, bath, or developer. T. LEDERSTIERN (Cape Town).—Mr. Blanchard will shortly furnish us with a detailed description of his developing box. T. A.—We will forward the last communication also to Mr. Glaisher. It is a subject we cannot enter into at length in this column. C. F. Lincoln.—The two samples of glass are much too light in tint, and would be worthless for the dark-room. A deep orange, approaching scarlet, is the right colour. Received, and will be noticed in our next. “ Adjutor, or Photographic Art- Studies,” Birnstingl. « The Universal Text-Book of Photography,” Harvey, Reynolds, and Fowler. “A Simple Practical Guide to Photography,” by J. Fallowfield, and some other matters. R. J. K.—To ascertain accurately the amount of angle included by any lens some elaborate mathematical calculations arc required. If you have access to a table of sines it may be ascertained more simply. Ascertain the equivalent focus of the lens, and measure the base-line, the angle of sub ject included is twice the tangent of half the angle. If you are not ft mathematician we may aid you in forming an approximation, thus : if the base-line of the picture is the same length as the equivalent focus of the lens, the amount of angle included is about 53° ; if the base-line be half the length of the equivalent focus of the lens, the angle included is about 27°, ami so in the intermediate proportion, not in definite ratio, but still near enough for a rough calculation. 2. Chloride of calcium and chloride of lime are not the same thing. The latter, sold as bleaching powder, is used in toning baths. Its tendency is to give black tones. 3. We do not consider your collodion over-iodized, but in using the iodide of potassium and bromide of cadmium you will be apt to get a precipitate of bromide of potassium. A. B.—Thirty-six letters for an advertiser with these initials, whose announce ment appeared in a recent number of the Photographic News, now lie at our office awaiting him. Several Correspondents in our next. Photographs Registered during the Past edlce. Mn. James Rosselt., 05, East Street, Chichester, Four Photographs of Rev. Dr. Hook, Dean of Chichester. Mr. James Burke, 44, Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin, , Photograph of a Plate, described as a specimen of British an.
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