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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. industry was obliged to regret an incompleteness in the series of these fabrics, especially from the two leading nations in this industry,— France and England,—and a deficiency in the labeling of many which were exhibited, so as to show their proper names and composition. We were disappointed in the expectation that the Exhibition would shed full light upon the difficult subject of the nomenclature and com position of the infinite variety of worsted fabrics. We use the word “ worsted”—which, although not strictly accurate, is the most con venient English term—to designate the fabrics in question. To render our future remarks intelligible to unskilled readers, we are compelled to enter at once upon the subject of the names and dis tinguishing characteristics of worsted fabrics, an inquiry demanded by the popular ignorance on the subject, which prevails to no little extent even among the dealers in the articles in question. In no de partment of practical knowledge is there so much confusion in the meaning and application of names. The names of the fabrics have rarely any etymological signification. They are usually given arbi trarily by the first introducer of the article, and, if they are success ful, become applied to articles quite different from the original fabrics, and especially to imitations in cheaper materials. Fabrics substan tially the same are constantly reappearing under different names. It is still possible, though difficult, to obtain some order out of this ap parent confusion, and to bring the different varieties of these fabrics into an arrangement which approaches a scientific classification. The leading basis of this classification is the character of the weave, or, as it is styled by the French, the armure of the fabric, the word armure signifying the system of harnesses with which the loom is armed, or provided, to produce a definite issue. These annures con sist of four fundamental or classical forms, from which all the varieties of simple tissues are derived. i.'That of taffeta. In this, the most simple form of tissue, there are only two harnesses, forming a simple interlacement of the threads of the warp and weft. This is the weave of broadcloth, cotton shirtings and sheetings, and mousselines de laine. 2. The twilled or Batavia weave, produced by four harnesses. 3. The serge tissue, produced by three harnesses. 4. The satin weave, produced by five or more harnesses, the effect of which is to bring the threads of the weft to the face. Different effects are produced from derivatives of these fundamental tissues. Thus, in the most simple,—that of cloth or taffetas,—varied effects are produced b.y the greater or less torsion of the threads, and the direction in which they are twisted; by variations in the size of the threads of the warp or weft compared with each other; by making the same weft pass alter-