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446 HISTORY OF LACE. fever, 398; tricot dentelle made in France, 399; Calais, 400; Lyons silk net, 401 ; illusion, ib.; Washer of Brussels invents “ Brussels net,” ib. Bohemian lace, see Germany. Bone lace, pillow lace, why so called, 251 ; term occurs frequently in great wardrobe accounts, 60. Boots, lace-trimmed, of court of Louis XIY. and of Cinq-Mars, 121; trimmed with Genoa point, 124. Brazil, its lace manufacture, 85. Bretagne, no record of laco manufacture, 223 ; lace mentioned in legend of Blue beard, and in ballads, ib.; the lace- trimmed wedding dress, ib. Bride, term explained, 26. Bruges, its “point ducliesse,” 110. Brussels lace, 92; called point d’Angleterre, 93 ; the best made in Brussels, 94; fine ness of thread, ib.; its costliness, 95; ground, bride, and reseau, ib.; reseau made by needle and on pillow, 96; flowers, needle and plat, or pillow, ib.; grounded Brussels, 97; its complicated manufac ture, ib.; division of labour, ib.; point gaze, 99; cost of a Brussels flounce, 101 ; Brussels of Queen Anne, 311. Brussels net, see Bobbin-net. Buckingham, petition of Great Marlow, 338; manufacture mentioned by Fullor, Cowpcr, Lysons, and Defoe, 339; New port Pagnel celebrated in last century, 340; trolly lace, 342 ; black lace, 350. Burano lace, 47. Burato, term explained, 39. Burgoyne or burgoin, lace head-dress of court of Louis XIV.. 176; and cap of Normandy peasant, 186. Burgundy lace, 220. Caen celebrated for its white blonde, 193. Calendar of State Papers in Public Record Office, passim. Campane, lace so called, 28. Canons, silver lace, of James I., 50; point de France of Louis XIV., 126; their cost liness, 127. Cap, fashion for royalty to die in a lace- trimmed cap, 304 ; that of James II. pre served at Dunkirk, ib. Ceylon, its lace resembles Maltese, 79. Champagne, point de Sedan much esteemed, 208; Sedan collars of Charles I., ib. Chansons h toile, 5. Chantilly, manufacture established by Duchess of Longueville, 183; old pattern book with orders for the court, ib.; its fall, 185. Christening suits, lace-trimmed, 273. Colbert, protects Chatelain the Huguenot, 80; establishes the lace manufacture of point de France, 125, 128, 130; his lace cravat, 163; his point du Havre, 188. Colberteen, lace so called, 303. Oourtrai, its Valenciennes lace, 110. Cravat, origin of the name, 31; of Charles II., 301; supply of point lace for a gentleman’s cravat, 312. Cutwork, Chap. II.; of Queen Aune of Bohemia, 11; St. Cuthbert’s grave- clothes, ib.; adorns shirts, handkerchiefs, sheets, and pillow-cases, ib.; cap and apron of widow of John of Newbury, 13 >' pattern books, 14; how made, 16; fisher man’s pall at Dieppe, 20; toile d’hon- lieur at St. Lo, ib.; cutwork of Madamo Gabrielle, 116; Holesom of Sweden, 246; cutwork of Denmark, 243; of Queen Elizabeth, 269; bearing cloth, 272; ruff's, 277; gorget of Countess of Pembroke, 287. Darned netting, see Lacis. Denmark, manufacture introduced by Queen Elizabeth, sister of Charles V., 238 ; purchases of Christian IV. ib.; his lace-trimmed shirts, 239; sold by lace postmen, ib.; character of the lace, 240. Dentelle, term when first used, 23. Devonshire, 354; Honiton, see; tombs of Sir J. and Lady Pole, 359; early manufac ture, effigies of Lady Doddridge and Bishop Stafford, ib.; troily lace, see; Greek lace made, 369; Maltese at Wood bury, ib. Doll dressed as model of fashions as early as the fourteenth century, 140; Grande and Petite Pandore of the H6tel Ram- bouillet, ib.; dolls sent to Vienna, Italy, and England, ib.; forbidden by Pitt, 141; Henry IV. sends doll to Marie do Medicis, ib.; Venetian custom at fair of St. Mark, ib. Dorsetshire, Blandford bone lace, see; Sher borne, 354; Lyme Regis, ib. Dresden lace mentioned by Anderson and Mrs. Cahlerwood, 230; Anti Gallican