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JAMES I. 287 After a time—epoch of the Spanish marriage- 35 —the ruff gave way to the “ falling band,” so familiar to ns in the portraits of Rubens and Vandyke. “ There is such a deal of pinning these ruffs, when a fine clean fall is worth them all,” says the “ Malcontent.” “ If you should chance to take a nap in the afternoon, your falling band requires no poking-stick to recover it.” 36 Cutwork still continued in high favour; it was worn on every article of linen, from the richly wrought collar to the nightcap. The Medicean ruff or gorget of the Countess of Pembroke (“ Sidney’s sister, Pembroke’s mother ”), with its elaborate border of swans (Fig. 114), is a good illustration of the fashion of her time. Among the early entries of Prince Charles, we have four nightcaps of cutwork, 71., 3 ' for making two of which for his high ness, garnished with gold and silver lace, Patrick Burke receives 15Z.; 38 but these modest entries are quite put to shame by those of his royal father, who, for ten yards of needlework lace “ pro le edginge” of his “galiriculis vulgo nightcaps,” pays If A los. Ad. 39 Well might the Water Poet exclaim— “ A nightcap is a garment of high state.” 40 When Queen Anne died, in 1619, we have an elaborate account of her funeral, 41 and of the sum paid to Dorothy Speckart foi dressing a hearse effigy with a large veil, wired and edged with peak lace and lawn, curiously cut in flowers, &c. Laced linen, however, was already discarded in mourning attire, for we find in enumerate. Among them we would in stance that of Alice, Countess of Derby, died 1630, in Harefield Church, Middle sex, in which the lace is very carefully sculptured. (Communicatedby Mr. Albert Hartshorn.) 33 1620-1. We have entries of “ falling bands” of good cambric, edged with beautiful bone lace, two dozen stitched and shagged, and cutwork nightcaps, purchased for James I., in the same account, with 28s. for “ one load of hay to stuff the woolsacks for the Parliament House.”—G. W. Acc. Jac. I. 18 to 19. In the same year, 1620, an English company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to India, for the King of Golconda. 30 u Malcontent,” 1600. 37 Extraordinary Expenses, 1622-6. P. B. O. 38 “2nd Acc. of Sir J. Villiers, 1617- 18.” P. E. O. 39 Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 6 to 7. 40 Taylor, 1640 “The beau would fain sickness To shew his nightcap tine, And his wrought pillow overspread with lawn.” Davies, Epigrams. 41 “ Acc. of Sir Lyonell Cranfield (uow Earl of Middlesex), late Master of the Great Wardrobe, touching the funeral of Queen Anne, who died 2nd March 1618” (i.e. 1619, N. S.). P. E. O.