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240 HISTORY OF LACE. The year 1647 was a great epoch in the lace-making of Jutland. A merchant named Steenbeck, taking a great interest in the fabric, engaged twelve persons from Dortmund, in West phalia, to improve the trade, and settled them at Tonder, to teach the manufacture to both men and women, rich and poor. These twelve persons are described as aged men, with long beards, which, while making lace, they gathered into bags, to prevent the hair from becoming entangled among the bobbins. The manufacture soon made great progress under their guidance, and extended to the south-western part of Ribe, and to the island of Romo. 4 The lace was sold by means of “ lace postmen,” as they were termed, who carried their wares throughout all Scandinavia and part of Germany. Christian IV. protected the native manufacture, and in the act of 1643, 5 “lace and such like pinwork” are described as luxurious articles, not allowed to be imported of a higher value than five shillings and sixpence the Danish ell. 6 A later ordinance, 1683, mentions “ white and black lace which are manufactured in this country,” and grants permission to the nobility to wear them. 7 Christian IV. did not patronise foreign manufactures. “ The King of Denmark,” writes Moryson, “ wears but little gold lace, and sends foreign apparel to the hangman to be disgraced, when brought in by gentlemen.” About the year 1712 the lace manufacture again was much improved by the arrival of a number of Brabant women, who accompanied the troops of King Frederick IV. on their return from the Netherlands, 8 and settled at Tonder. We have received from Jutland, through the kind exertions of Mr. Rudolf Bay, of Aalborg, a series of Tonder laces, taken from the pattern books of the manufacturers. The earlier specimens are all of Flemish character. There is the old Flanders lace, with its Dutch flowers and grounds in endless variety. The Brabant, with reseau ground, the flowers and “jours ” well executed. Then follow the Mechlin grounds, the patterns worked with a coarser thread, in many, 4 Rawert’s “ Report upon the Industry in the Kingdom of Denmark,” 1848. 5 “ The Great Recess.” 8 Two-thirds of a yard. 1 Dated 1G43. 8 “ Tonder laee, fine and middling, made in the districts of Lygum Kloster, keeps all the peasswit girls employed. Thereof is exported to the German mar kets and the Baltic, it is supposed, for more than 100,000 rixdollars (11,1101.), and the fine thread must be had from the Netherlands, and sometimes costs 100 rixdollars per lb.” — Vontoppridan, Economical Balance, 1759.